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Fancy Dress à Paris!

by April Calahan Posted on October 26, 2017

This gallery contains 2 photos.

While reorganizing a selection of miscellaneous engravings recently, we came across a set of plates depicting wonderfully whimsical fancy dress ensembles. The adoption of masks or other elements of disguise for festivals and celebrations is believed to date back to … Continue reading →

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Les Parfums de Rosine

by April Calahan Posted on September 11, 2017

This gallery contains 7 photos.

After a self-imposed hiatus due to a spectacular year-long renovation (and two moves of our entire collection!), Material Mode is pleased to share one of the special items brought into the collection during our time away. A few years back, … Continue reading →

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Hot New Accession: La Femme dans la Décoration Moderne

by April Calahan Posted on August 26, 2016

This gallery contains 3 photos.

Created in 1902, Julius Klinger’s book of design and ornament, La Femme dans la Décoration Moderne, is a graphic celebration of the feminine.  The 30 pages of motifs contained within—which all feature women—were intended to be sources of inspiration for practitioners of … Continue reading →

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Couture Copies in America: A Case-Study

by April Calahan Posted on May 11, 2016

This gallery contains 2 photos.

  Over the last few years, Material Mode has frequently referenced the symbiotic relationship between Parisian couture and American fashion during the first half of the 20th century.  US-based ready-to-wear manufacturers looked to Paris to set the mode, which they … Continue reading →

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Eleanor Lambert: The Empress of 7th Avenue

by April Calahan Posted on March 2, 2016

This gallery contains 2 photos.

One of the most seminal figures in the history of American fashion was not, in fact, a designer at all.  For more than seven decades, Eleanor Lambert (1903-2003) was American fashion’s greatest champion and advocate, pulling the strings behind the … Continue reading →

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The Fit Flapper

by April Calahan Posted on December 4, 2015

This gallery contains 5 photos.

In 1924, American Vogue opined, “At the beginning of beauty lies the beautiful figure. For it is the single thing about a woman that comes nearest to dominating in the ensemble of her attractiveness.” It may not be able to … Continue reading →

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Screen Shot 2015-11-11 at 9.30.59 AMJust released this week, Fashion Plates:  150 Years of Style, which features 200 fashion plates from our collection.  Many of these beautiful images, which date between 1778-1928, have not been reproduced since their original date of publication.

Thank you to Yale University Press for their unerring support of this project which is currently available as a slipcased, luxury edition.

An interview about the book can be found on the podcast Stuff Missed in History Class.

by April Calahan Posted on November 11, 2015 | Leave a comment

From Russia with Love: Fira Benenson

by April Calahan Posted on November 5, 2015

This gallery contains 4 photos.

While sorting though a recent donation, a small collection of exquisitely detailed sketches by one Fira Benenson came to perk my curiosity.  Her name was unfamiliar to me, and as someone who spends a great deal of time immersed in … Continue reading →

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Tennis in the ’20s

by April Calahan Posted on August 3, 2015

This gallery contains 6 photos.

                   Three tennis looks, created by an unidentified French designer in 1926, the year women’s professional tennis was established. Material Mode has a quibble. After attending the exhibition The Rise of Sneaker … Continue reading →

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What to Wear to a Revolution

by April Calahan Posted on July 14, 2015

This gallery contains 2 photos.

  (click to enlarge) In early November 1793, amidst the most violent period of the French Revolution, the National Convention issued this decree declaring that the citizens of France were “free to wear such garments appropriate to their sex in … Continue reading →

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