Tag Archives: #graduatestudies

P​aris Seminar 2015: News from Fashion Industry Leader Didier Grumbach

Didier Grumbach
Didier Grumbach, President of Honour of the Fédération Française de la Couture is one of the most discreet and prestigious figures in fashion.

Didier may not be a household name, but in the international fashion industry, he’s a legend. It’s been GFM’s great fortune to hear him speak about the history of the industry and his unique place at the center of it, when he opens the Paris seminar every year.

Co-founder of Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, colleague to Givenchy, chairman of Thierry Mugler, and Chairman of the Fédération Français de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, and of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Corture, Didier has also served as Director of Studies and Dean of Professional Staff at Institut Français de la Mode since 1985.

Didier with Thierry Mugler in 1980.
Didier with Thierry Mugler in 1980.

His History of International Fashion – recently translated into English – is the ultimate authority on the history of haute couture, leading to the origin of ready-to-wear and manufacturing, and finally to the internationalization of the industry as we know it today. Didier hasn’t written a history of fashion, and his lecture to GFM students doesn’t follow that narrative. Instead, he discusses designers as instigators of society-changing concepts; for example, Chanel’s disruption of structured garments through the introduction of new fabrics and silhouettes; the Christian Dior business model and the start of licensing in the U.S.; and YSL’s brilliant creation of ready-to-wear collections inspired by couture. Didier has the remarkable ability to rise above the often-repeated stories of glamour and indulgence (although he’s familiar with those as well) to describe businesses devoted to beauty and high fashion but starved for cash, and opportunistic governments that use the apparel industry as economic protection. There are very few in the apparel industry – anywhere in the world – who have the comprehensive knowledge and experience of Didier, and even fewer who have the generosity to share it.

After his lecture at Institut Français de la Mode, Didier Grumbach signed copies of his book for the students.
After his lecture at Institut Français de la Mode, Didier Grumbach signed copies of his book for the students.
Monsieur Grumbach's "History of International Fashion", recently translated into English.
Monsieur Grumbach’s “History of International Fashion” was only recently translated into English.

“This book . . . aspires to be the story of the creation, the evolution, and the implosion of the fashion trade and to offer perspectives on a profession that, like any other social body, defines itself by its origins as by its current economic context.” – Didier Grumbach

Please see “Seminars” on the Global Fashion Management website for more information.


 

GFM NY Seminar: Priceless

By Elka Gruenberg (Class of 2016),
Northeast Account Executive, Simone Perele 

Students from HK, Paris and NY enjoy some fresh air together as they take a quick break from site visits and lectures of intensive 10 day NY Seminar.

If you were walking down East 55th Street one afternoon in early October, you may have happened across dozens of giddy adults pouring out onto the street; visibly elated, exhausted, chattering non-stop in half a dozen languages, and making a beeline for celebratory drinks.  What you would have seen would have been students from FIT’s GFM Program – with their colleagues from IFM and HKPU – emerging from the New York Seminar after delivering case study presentations.

Students giving their case study presentation

To be fair… we were warned…. multiple times…by all of our professors, advisors, and older students…“Be prepared not to sleep” and  “You’re going to work harder than you’ve ever worked before.”

Students work on their case study presentations in between site visits and lectures

Yet we eagerly dove into the seminar, enthusiastically meeting our new colleagues and forming our case study teams. What followed was ten days of unremitting learning. Nights were spent continuously working and re-working angles of the case study.

Group work

Our days, however, were spent being lectured by some of the retail industry’s most influential and accomplished players.

I won’t lie; it felt a bit like a commercial…

Metro Card. $2.50. 
Morning double latte. $4.50…
Asking advice from Anna Bakst, who launched Michael Kors Footwear and Accessories and built it into a multi-billion dollar business…Priceless.

Anna Bakst speaks to GFM students
Anna Bakst, President, Accessories and Footwear at Michael Kors

While I’m sure she could have easily picked twice as many speakers, Pamela Ellsworth, Chair of GFM, assembled a group of experts who covered the entire span of the retail horizon.

Kevin Ryan – founder of Gilt Groupe – walked us through how he launched the luxury flash sale site. He challenged us to ask, “Why will people use this product,” at every point in product development. He also reminded us that while ideas are great, “The idea is only moderately important. Execution is everything.”

We learned how securing private equity is like dating; how manufacturers are positioned to become direct conduits to retail; and in this day and age every company is a tech company.

All of the speakers pushed us to expand our understanding of the retail experience.

Today’s consumer is more global, more tech savvy, more environmentally conscious and more demanding than ever before. To keep up, we need to be constantly aware of what is happening around the world. Luckily, all I have to do to keep up is Skype with any of my case study teammates in Paris, Casablanca, Geneva, or Hong Kong.