Congratulations!

offbeach
L’Officiel, June 1988, p. 51

You made it through another school year!

Now you can relax for the summer.  Ok, so maybe you have to work, but you still won’t have projects due after your workday, right?

New York City is a great place to be in the summer.  The city is less crowded because a lot of people relocate for a few months.  Yes, there are tourists here from all over the world, but the trains aren’t as full, and it’s warm out, so you can walk everywhere.  Plus there are tons of free cool things to do here all summer long.

Just to give you some ideas, I’ve compiled a little list of links.

I’m putting Time Out New York in here first, because we just happen to have it up on the 6th floor of the library.

TONY cvr310
Cover, April 22-28 issue, up in PERS on 6th floor

http://www.timeout.com/newyork/things-to-do

And here are a bunch of other cool listings:

http://www.theskint.com/

http://www.centralparknyc.org/things-to-see-and-do/

http://www.governorsislandalliance.org/calendar/

http://www.brooklynpaper.com/sections/go/events/

 Have a great summer, everyone!

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Spring, and pretty gowns in bloom, pt. 1

The library’s Periodicals and Electronic Resources department subscribes to a several bridal magazines.  We subscribe to these for their presentation of many items, not just pretty gowns, so we thought we should point them out to you.

If you’re curious to see the whole list, you can find it here:

http://fitnyc.libguides.com/periodicals-by-subject/bridalwear

brides cover

Brides (American edition):

This is the oldest of our current bridal titles.  It is America’s big, mass-market bridal glossy.  Like most bridal mags, it’s chief purpose is to provide some text between the vast amount of advertising pages devoted to gown sales.  And bridesmaid dress sales.   The graphic design of this title hasn’t been updated much in 30 years, though, and the layout looks just like every other middle-market glossy (probably because they are mostly published by Conde Nast).

Brides Vera Wang Mens 2015

 

 

 

It is a well-rounded title, including articles on honeymoons and travel, some bridal-show runway coverage, trends in bridesmaid’s gowns, some coverage of beauty trends (with a column by Drew Barrymore, no less), a basic calendar for wedding planning, even some discussion of the couple’s future relationship.  We often recommend this title for the men’s formal-wear and tableware, as well.

 

Brides Plates 2015

Formal-wear styled for a younger menswear market, ad by Vera Wang.  This ad campaign also shows up in Martha Stewart Weddings.

Christian Lacroix plates headline an editorial feature on tableware in the April/May 2015 issue.

And some bridesmaid’s dresses from the editorial:  Brides Floral Dresses 2015

 

 

 

Very Conde Nast feeling to that page, and not in the best sense.  All images shown here are from the April/May 2015 issue.

Their web site is more detailed and looks a bit fresher:

http://www.brides.com/

 

MSW coverMartha Stewart Weddings:

Even though this magazine shares a lot of mid-market advertisers with Brides (American), it stays true to Ms. Stewart’s goals.  This title attempts to bring a “beautiful” DIY lifestyle to anyone who can cut a piece of paper.

MSW DIY 2015

 

 

 

 

Among the standard gown and ring advertisements, the magazine includes plenty of hands-on tips to make keepsakes, invitations, and favors.  The editorial focuses more on the domestic details of both wedding and married life, with suggestions for table decorations, household appliances, and flower arrangements along with the usual makeup and jewelry tips.  Likewise, the design of the magazine and the tone of the editorial is younger than Brides (American).

MSW Mira Zwillinger Spring 2015 2 The gowns in the editorials are fashion-forward but affordable, more ‘Vera Wang for David’s Bridal’ than Vera Wang.  While serving its middle-class audience, Martha Stewart Living holds on to its aspirational, trend chasing, and lifestyle roots.  All images shown here are from the Spring 2015 issue.

One more note: the layout pictured here on the left includes the only model who wasn’t pale-skinned and Anglo-featured in any of the bridal magazines discussed here.  (“Scanning the Spectrum”, featuring Madisin Bradley, Spring 2015 issue, pp. 292-305)  Surely you can do better, publishers?

http://www.marthastewartweddings.com/

 

brideuk cvr

Brides UK:

This is also a Conde Nast product, and includes similar features to its American counterpart: hundreds of gown ads, month by month to do lists, bridesmaid’s dress ads, housewares, mother-of-the bride tips. Despite these similarities this title has a lighter tone than Brides (American).

Brides UK Mom of Bride 2007

 

 

 

 

The difference springs from several sources.  The clothing sales pitches are not aimed just at the bride.  The editorial and ads include a lot of items for children, grooms (lots of menswear!), and bridesmaids; and it includes regular articles and advertising aimed at chic mothers of brides.

 

stripe dressBeing a British publication, there are also great hats, of course, as the layout above shows.

bridesmaids cheeky

 

Maybe it’s that more actual weddings are depicted in this title, or maybe it’s the cheekiness of the English ads, but in this mag, weddings seem to be less serious business and more fun for the whole family.

 

This saucy dress is a great inspiration for the FD Draping 2 Stripe Project!

 

We recommend this title if you need references for men’s formal-wear or current hat fashions.  Also, English designers are featured prominently throughout.

 

TnC coverTown and Country Weddings:

Town and Country  has always targeted the American country-club set, an audience known for their traditional tastes.  Yet this magazine is more forward-looking in graphic design, layout, and in gowns shown than others reviewed here.   The photography layouts are so minimalist they are suitable for mobile consumption.

This title depicts some fabulous weddings of “real” people in it.  Well, ok, so the super wealthy/famous, but still.   The style spots use the snappy “Style Spy” tag to highlight wedding pics full of pretty, tasteful ideas.  The (larger) amount of space devoted to men’s clothing and grooming is a nod to old-school style not seen in Brides (American) or Martha Stewart Weddings.

The editorials are pared down and elegant.  While many of the styles are very simple, they aren’t necessarily traditional, as this cropped-top bride (Spring 2015 issue) shows.

TnC crop top

Its focus on old money brings Town and Country Weddings some very upscale advertisers, so it surprised me how much more funky their products were, more so than even Martha Stewart Weddings‘.

T&C Wedding Invites 2014

 

Some of the ads and some of the layouts showcase these very hip products, like this invitation.

 

 

Plenty others contain more traditional goods, elegantly styled, like this grouping of rings or this lace gown.

T&C Wedding Rings 2014

 

TnC lace

 

 

 

The invitation and rings pictured above are from ads, and the lace dress from editorial.  All these images are from the Spring/Summer 2014 issue of Town and Country Weddings.

 

 

 

The internet has given people many more and more-diverse options for researching and designing their weddings.  One of the biggest competitors to Brides has been The Knot.  While this began as a website, it has also become a successful magazine (which we do not carry, sorry.)  Here are some other websites I’ve found for interesting takes on the wedding industry:

 https://www.theknot.com/

http://offbeatbride.com/

http://www.ceremonianyc.com/

The library also has tons of books with historic looks at wedding fashions.  If you search StyleCat using the word “bridal”, you will get pointers to 95 other sources for images and research on the bridal market.  Watch this space for Pt. 2 of this article, where I’ll show you some of the market resources for researching this classification.

http://tinyurl.com/oax37ao

Happy spring, and may all your romantic dreams come true!

The talented Shannen Lindsey (FMM) helped with the ideas and images for this article.

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Cinderella, the Sasenach, and other fantasies

Cinderella 2015

Who doesn’t love a ball and a wedding?  Especially fantasy ones…

http://tinyurl.com/k8cmvkt

Cinderella’s ball gown caught my eye on the billboards, and I’m dying to see the movie.  I was also dying to see the gown’s construction.  It’s interesting that so many of the techniques used to make this very grand gown were pulled from nineteenth-century understructures and couture techniques.  The crinoline, in particular, is almost a direct copy of some of the ones in museum collections.  Likewise, the corset is based on corsets similar to those in the Museum at FIT’s collection, like the one here:

http://tinyurl.com/nq6qcqn

There just happens to be an exhibition up at the Bard Graduate Center, at 18 West 86th street, all about these under-structures, if you want to go see some for inspiration.

http://www.bgc.bard.edu/gallery/gallery-at-bgc/fashioning-the-body.html

The Eveningwear specialization in the Fashion Design Department offers a number of classes where students learn how to create boned bodices, types of skirt supports, and elaborate embellishments, such as silk flowers and the delicate butterflies that float in the tulle at Lily James’ shoulders in this ballgown.  There is also a class on corset making in the Fashion Design department.

The library at FIT is a place full of ideas for fantasy costumiers, like the team designing for “Outlander”.

outlanderSome of the fancier costumes have gone on display recently, at the show’s season opening:

http://tinyurl.com/khlkkxc

The library at FIT offers many resources to do the sort of historical-clothing research the costumers for “Outlander” have used.  Besides using corseting and understructure techniques, the costume team for this show have also clearly spent a lot of time researching mid-eighteenth century (the show takes place in 1743-46) clothes in England and Scotland.  There is a lot of information to tell a researcher exactly what British soldiers would have worn, but dress in the Scottish highlands wasn’t so well documented (until Queen Victoria became besotted with the highlands in the 1850s).

Outlander green silver

 

This allows the designers more rein to imagine the costumes any way they like.  In this article, I love the designers’ talk about the silvery grays and greens of the landscape.  That those colors inspired their design palette.

The other inspiring thing the designers talk about in the above article are the ways they manipulated fabrics and furs to give different surface effects. (Go Textile and Surface-Design people!)

 

 

I’ve posted images of the costumes from “Game of Thrones” before, but the costumes are so intricate they deserve a lot of looking.

Game_of_Thrones_Oslo_exhibition_2014_-_Royal_court_costumesMichele Carragher, the designer, has used the embellishments (embroidery, creative appliques, jewel-like attachments) to convey the characters of the story so individually.  And because the show unfolds over time, she can manipulate these images over time to show the way each character grows and changes.

http://www.michelecarragherembroidery.com/Game-of-Thrones-Gallery%282829575%29.htm

While “Cinderella” is embedded in our social consciousness as a common fairytale theme, the stories in “Outlander” and “Game of Thrones” bring newer characters into our imagination, partially depending upon their costumes to tell their stories.

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We Love Print

For many years, the internet has been hailed as the death of print.  In the periodicals area of the library, we know that’s not true, because we see hundreds of students and visitors going though our magazines every semester.

http://money.cnn.com/2015/03/05/smallbusiness/startups-create-magazines/index.html?section=money_topstories

Just so you know, we update our list of subscriptions all the time.  We’re trying to always have the newest, most interesting sources for fashion, art, and design.  Here are some newer titles you might not have seen yet.

Acne cover

Acne Paper began as the print sidekick of the Acne Studios in Stockholm.  It expresses the studio’s point of view on art, fashion, and current culture, with offices in Stockholm, London, and Paris.  It’s grown to be an influential source for fashion ideas.

You can take a look at the work of Acne Studios:

http://www.acnestudios.com/

 

 

Fat cvr

 

Fat Magazine comes from similar interests in art, fashion, and daily life expressed through designed things.  Published in Helsinki, the capital city of Finland, it picks up the thread of challenge common to art and brings it into current-day fashion layout, graphic design, and photography.

 http://www.fat.fi/  and also

http://www.fat-magazine.com/

 

fructose cvr

 

The magazine Hi Fructose is focused on illustration, not fashion.  The magazine is filled with graphic design, drawing, sculpture, and other contemporary arts aimed at inspiring artists of all sorts.

You can look at more about the magazine here:

http://hifructose.com/

 

 

Oh Comely cvr

The next title, Oh Comely, comes from gentler impulses, advertising itself as a compilation that “makes people smile, full of quiet moments and stories.”  This magazine, published in London, is designed to be pretty and soothing, rather than challenging and thought provoking.  “Read it with a cup of tea or a toddy,” declares the publicity text.

http://www.ohcomely.co.uk/

And of course it comes with/from a blog…

 http://www.ohcomely.co.uk/blog

 

 

You can find the current issues of all these titles on Display at the Periodicals Desk on the 6th floor.  For the most recent additions to our list of titles, you can look at the “Newly Added Titles” tab on the Periodicals by Subject List.

http://fitnyc.libguides.com/periodicals-by-subject

 

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