Magazine of the Week

Hi, everyone, welcome back!

This week’s title is one of the new batch of menswear titles: menswear for the era of hipsters and normcore. There have been a healthy batch of new men’s magazines begun in the last 6-7 years, and Fantastic Man is one of the ones that led the trend. It is published in Amsterdam and comes out 2x/year, which means that it has to be especially juicy when it does.

 

The title was developed by Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom in 2005. Their aim was to produce something that looked contemporary and of interest to thinking men over the age of 30. Their interest in fashion was a driving force, but, unlike many of the other glossy men’s mags, they felt it was time to take the sex appeal out of the fashion presentation. They round out the title with their intellectual take on pop-culture and award-winning art direction. This title is definitely part of the current fashion for minimalist graphic design.

 

 

 

 

 

As far as fashion goes, they seek the middle ground between all-active-sportswear all-the-time and seeing menswear as purely suit-based. Most of the editorial in the above issue is pretty accessible: common pieces like jeans, jackets and trenchcoats, styled a bit less conservatively than 10 Men or Another Man might present.

http://www.fantasticman.com/magazine/

https://www.interviewmagazine.com/culture/fantastic-man

 

 

You can read more about our recent menswear acquisitions here:

 

 

 

 

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Afrofashion/futures twists

The cast of the Marvel Universe’s latest film, Black Panther

This post is going to be more reading list than writing. Mostly I just wanted to tie together some nerdy themes (I’m a librarian, after all) into the hype for the new Black Panther movie, and get you into some history of pop-culture that overlaps with fashion, which is one of the things FIT is all about.

Nichelle Nichols as Lt. Uhura was an early mainstream symbol of black inclusion in white pop culture.

 

Afrofuturism, a term coined by Mark Dery in 1993, refers to speculative fiction (and its surrounding and expanding pop-culture these days) which puts the African American experience front and center and imagines technology used in its service. More or less, but really more.

https://futuristicallyancient.com/tag/mark-dery/

 

 

 

 

As Lanre Bakare described in a 2014 article for The Guardian:

“Afrofuturism’s reach is vast. It encompasses the literature of writers such as Octavia E Butler and Ishmael Reed, films such as John Sayle’s The Brother From Another Planet, and the visual art of Jean-Michel Basquiat and Ellen Gallagher. It has been retrospectively applied to the work of musicians ranging from Jimi Hendrix and Sun Ra to Public Enemy and Lee “Scratch” Perry. It has an expansive and pliant musical heritage, which film-maker and Afrofuturist author Ytasha Womack argues stretches all the way back to ancient African griot traditions; she also notes the frequent references to Egyptian astronomy and the pyramids.” (Follow the link below for links to details on all the folks mentioned.)

https://www.theguardian.com/music/2014/jul/24/space-is-the-place-flying-lotus-janelle-monae-afrofuturism

 

Sun Ra and his Arkestra at a concert in the UK in 2015

 

Another “cultural provocateur” who has written about this concept is Greg Tate, who is a writer, artist and musician from Harlem. His writing on the subject found its voice while he was a staff writer for the Village Voice from 1987-2003. He and his Arkestra will be performing at the Brooklyn Museum on March 29, 2018.

Vice magazine defined Afrofuturism as a “space-obsessed African-American musical genre that was most prominent in the 70s and 80s.”

https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/nnmgdx/afrofuturism

 

Monae’s 2013 album cover references the 1927 film Metropolis, one of the first science fiction films ever made.

 

What’s exciting is that this trend *isn’t* over. The wave of new female artists (musical in this case) have embraced this framework and expressed it visually through album art (remember that genre?), stage costume, and magazine photography.

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/12/12/fashion/afrofuturism-the-next-generation.html

https://www.theguardian.com/music/2014/jul/24/space-is-the-place-flying-lotus-janelle-monae-afrofuturism

 

 

 

The best visual examples, outside of the Marvel Universe’s new film, Black Panther, are performances by Solange Knowles, Janelle Monae, and Rihanna.

Solange on Saturday Night Live, November 2017. Photo by Dana Edelson/NBC via Getty images

And, to bring it back to this week’s MoW, here’s Rihanna, in a fashion shoot for W Magazine:

Rihanna in September 2017 W Magazine. Photo by Steven Klein, styled by Edward Enninful

 

Some reading:

https://docmadson.wordpress.com/2017/09/21/black-panther/

http://www.ebony.com/entertainment-culture/black-alt-enter-afrofuturism-999#axzz56XWdGxCJ

http://www.okayafrica.com/african-future-okayafrica-introduction-afrofuturism/

https://www.theroot.com/afrofuturism-what-does-a-black-future-look-like-1790855083

https://thinkprogress.org/afrofuturism-imagining-a-black-planet-d515413927d2/

http://www.slate.com/articles/technology/future_tense/2015/11/utopian_and_dystopian_visions_of_afrofuturism.html

https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2015/dec/07/afrofuturism-black-identity-future-science-technology

https://www.theguardian.com/science/political-science/2014/jan/07/afrofuturism-where-space-pyramids-and-politics-collide

https://www.cnn.com/2012/03/31/showbiz/rise-of-black-nerds/index.html

http://www.blerdsonline.com/http://blerds.atlantablackstar.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Magazine of the Week

Hi, everyone!

 

This week Vogue Paris is the MoW because they were current-thinking enough to put Rihanna on the cover in the midst of the Grammy madness. I’ve written a lot about the foreign Vogues here, here and here. But today I’m talking about inclusivity, the music industry, and publishers that get it. The Grammy Awards were in New York Sunday a week past, and that makes it a local fashion event and worthy of comment, right?

 

In case you were wondering, Vogue Paris is the French edition of the American fashion publication Vogue. It was launched in June 1920 (almost 100 years ago!), and is published monthly. We have issues going back to 1965. If you need older issues, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Library has them going back to 1947 (appointment necessary).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like the American edition, Vogue Paris highlights music, the art scene, and other cultural markers, as well as selling pages and pages of high-end advertising. This issue is a love letter to Rihanna, featuring her in nearly every layout. It’s hard to say if this had anything to do with the upcoming Grammy awards, or if Rihanna just continues to be such a hot commodity that editors counted on the sales her cover story would bring.

 

 

 

Backstage at the Grammys, pic from @MikeSington

Vogue editors were not alone in this. Even the kids of pop stars have heroes (as in *not* their parents). One of the best moments at the Grammy awards ceremony was backstage, when P!nk got to introduce her daughter, Willow Hart, to the pop star. Kudos to Rihanna’s uber-class act, posing for pics with Willow and her mom!

It’s worth noting that the two celebrities who won the Grammys last week were both under the age of 7:

I will leave you with Blue Ivy shushing her parents, Jayzee and Beyonce’, for talking over Camila Cabello’s speech. This girl has inherited her parents’ aplomb and then some!

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