The Cape Saga Pt. I: The Trouble with Chiffon

March 31, 2010 | By | 10 Replies More
The bane of my existance...glad I'm not in Eveningwear with all the skilled people...

The bane of my existence...glad I'm not in Eveningwear with all the skilled people...

Dear Chiffon,

I hate you.

-Yissel

*********

Working with Chiffon is bittersweet.

Yes, it looks beautiful in a garment, all flowing, layered, ruffled, gathered, maybe even fluted… A+ on the finished product every time, but boy…little does the average person know how much actual work is involved when you’re working with the stuff. I mean, if you want it to look as nice as possible. Let me show what I mean….

1) For starters, I can’t simply lay my fabric out,  lay my pattern over it and cut, the way I did with the pants in my first post. Yes, we’ve reached the groaning portion of the post. Welcome everyone’s favorite technique: Cutting to paper! YAY (Ugh)!  What we’d normally do in this situation is lay a big sheet of pattern paper under the chiffon and lay the pattern on top, pin the crap out of it and THEN cut. Why? Because chiffon is a slippery little b– uh… thing. You’re not even supposed to cut multiple layers at a time-but I said to heck with that as you’ll soon see*.

Problem: Was working at home and forgot my pattern paper.

Solution: A little ingenuity, a lot of pins, and the sports section….

Ooooh...it looks like a print! Alas, it's just a week-old free paper

Ooooh...it looks like a print! Alas, it's just a week-old free paper

Ahhh, 0ne hour, 8 spreads, 30 pins and a few choice curse words later, I managed to prep my fabric and pattern for cutting.

And what a simple, yet ingenious  piece of pattering marvel it is!!! Behold, the beginnings of what is to be a very elegant cape. What makes me so clever you ask? Well, not only have I *sandwiched my [news]paper between 4 (that’s right) layers of chiffon, but I’ve layed my pattern out and designed it so that the back is on the fold and the front on the selvage! Yes! Less seam finishes for me!

Side note: Capes: They’re great. In a future post I’ll be discussing the fact that all the cool kids are makin’ ‘em. (at least in my class anyway)

Now I just need to iron my actual paper pattern...joy

Now I just need to iron my actual paper pattern...joy

Yes, my phone does in fact read "1:12 AM." Good times...

Yes, my phone does in fact read "1:12 AM." Good times...

2)Enter: New Problem. Good design students and crafters alike have more than one pair of scissors. For the most part, everyone has about two: one for paper and one for fabric. Aaaah, you see where I’m going with this?

Presumably, majority might vote for the fabric scissors but…to sully my sexy sheers? Cripple my classy cutters? …F– up my fancy forbici (Italian for “scissors”)?!?!

What’s a girl to do? (Other than give away free advertising for ghinger?)

Note: In the industry, they’d lay this stuff out like 100-pile high, let it rest over night, then cut it with a laser. A friggin’ LASER. How do I get my hands on a laser?

Good scissors are an investment

Good scissors are an investment

The Age-Old Dilema: Fabric or Paper scissors? Fabric! Paper! Fabric! Paper.... It's too much!!!!

The Age-Old Dilema: Fabric or Paper scissors? Fabric! Paper! Fabric! Paper.... It's too much!!!!

Solution: Started with the paper scissors, then shunned them to the bottom of the toolbox after the shoddy job they did and regrettably switched to my fabric ones, which performed beautifully, only after I promised them they would be getting a top notch sharpening to make up for the abuse.  (I wont even show you the horrible job the other pair did. It’s just vulgar)

Voila!  Part one of the nightmare is finally over. Tune in for part II of “The Cape Saga.” When I go over having to sew this crap lovely, lovely fabric. ;-)

Genius idea for the future: Cut the cape out of super hero comic books!

Genius idea for the future: Cut the cape out of super hero comic books!

Tags: , , , , ,

Category: Sportswear, Yissel

Comments (10)

Trackback URL | Comments RSS Feed

  1. Christina says:

    We love chiffon in the Intimate Apparel specialization.. welcome to our world! I bet it will be beautiful in the end.

  2. Norma says:

    I’m sure you’re great at it, but chiffon looks like a nightmare.

  3. Nasya says:

    HEHEHE, Thanks for the evening wear props! Chiffon can be a tricky one. Best thing in the world is to do what you did with the paper, but two layers, one under and one on top. Then cut with a rotary cutter. That keeps you from having to lift the fabric and the slippage we all hate. Plus save the holy grail of scissors. Great job on the ingenuity!

  4. Cicie says:

    chiffon is very scary to work with, but it does look great. just wondering, would you try rotary cutting on chiffon? I find the fabric move less when I cut it with rotary cutter.

  5. Yissel says:

    Ugh!!! You guys are geniuses! And I am the retard who’s realized that I actually HAVE a rotary cutter!!! Blast!

  6. Trish says:

    Things are looking good. I just wonder if using the selvage as a seam finish will be a good choice in the end. It seems to me that the selvage, especially on chiffon, is tight and will not allow the rest of the chiffon to drape as beautifully as possible.

    I am enjoying your blog, thanks, Trish

  7. Yissel says:

    Trish, you bring up an excellent point! Stay tuned for my next Cape Saga post (or maybe the one after it), as things will perhaps make more sense once you see the garment on the form. I’ll go into further explanation about it as well.

  8. Fashion Zest says:

    This is a really interesting post. Truly inspiring for all us fashion students. Give us more! :)

  9. Fashion Zest says:

    This is a really interesting post… As a fashion student its truly inspiring to see how you use and process materials.

  10. Matthias says:

    Wow! At last I got a weblog from where I know how to actually take useful facts regarding my
    study and knowledge.

Leave a Reply