As resident director of FIT in Milan at Politecnico di Milano, Lisa Feuerherm is a true jet-setter. She’s often escorting students of the two-year fashion design program on field trips to trade and fashion shows, factories and galleries (with espresso stops of course!) throughout Europe.
How students present themselves, often after long hours of travel angst, can leave a lasting impression on individuals who may recall them once they start their fashion careers.
Whether you’re off to inspect looms, evaluate mill swatches, visit the Gucci Museum, climb to the rooftop of the Duomo, or enjoy Lake Como, Professor Feuerherm’s dress and travel tips may come in handy. They are useful, too, for attending trade shows, industry events, art openings, or just dealing with the hustle of urban travel.
Air travel dress: “Plan your wardrobe around your favorite jewelry,” says Prof. Feuerherm. “I only take my favorite jewelry and try to wear it or bring in my carry on.
Electronics: “Never put your laptop in your suitcase.” Period.
The wrap: “I travel with a black shawl. It can be used in multiple ways, such as, to keep your neck warm, or your legs covered while you sleep. You fashion it to be sleeveless, wearing it turtled around your neck.”
Comfort is key: “Wear professional clothing that still feels like you’re walking in your pajamas!” she says.
Think from the bottom up: “The majority of my space in my carry-on is devoted to my shoes. Never wear new shoes or boots on a trip. I change shoes when walking the city, or on school trips.”
During the winter, says Prof. Feuerherm “start with the thing people will see the most—your shoes, your outerwear.”
“I tell students everyone is going to know you’re a student. You’re young and beautiful. What will set you apart is to be dressed in an interesting yet appropriate manner.” – Prof. Feuerherm
Quirky with finesse. At trade shows, it’s often apparent that students are not clients, says Prof. Feuerherm. “Quirky outfits that look sophisticated get noticed and are remembered.”
By air or sea “ziplock bags or clear plastic bags save time and problems. I roll up a lot of business clothing knapsack style.”
From the start, artwork was a must for FIT’s new administrative offices at 333 Seventh Avenue. Written into the plans for the new 22,000 square-foot space are corridors and wall space where art would hang. Having been mined from faculty, student and alumni archives, photography and artwork now fill the space.
Prof. Brad Farwell, Photography adjunct, was put to the creative task of curating and hanging the photographs.
“It’s a great opportunity to showcase the talents of FIT’s visual artists, while enhancing the college’s newest space,” says Prof. Farwell.
“The artwork adds vibrance and imagination to a very structured environment,” says Bafemi Silver, a legal assistant in the Office of the General Counsel.
June Ng, director of space management and planning, says “It was always a concept to incorporate art work into the design of the floor.”
Fine Arts professors Jeff Way and Jean Feinberg dug into their archives, mainly accessing work of sophomores and juniors. “The main criteria was the quality of the work,” says Prof. Way. “The (administrative) staff had some input in the final selection, but we tried to place the work that had the maximum visual impact.”
Says Prof. Way, “The space there is extensive. The reception area and the conference rooms are excellent places to showcase the student work, and they’re thrilled to have their work shown in this context.”
Ms. Ng agrees. “We wanted our walls to sing in a way that reflects FIT’s brand and character.” And they do.
It is indeed “Hot Town. Summer in the City,” as the 60s song goes! But if you pace yourself you’ll be able to take advantage of much that New York City has to offer in the weeks before the start of fall classes.
The City’s cultural events and other resources feed the creativity of all of us. The sights and sounds of the City combined with your innate talent and energy will help your individual vision and make you better students and lifelong forces in our industry.
We have taken to Twitter with some excellent faculty recommendations of exhibits and happenings around New York. I want to mention a few that are current for the month of August, and to add a couple of my own suggestions:
Photography Professor Brad Farwell: The group show “Aperture Summer Open.” “It’s an excellent mix of current photographers all addressing contemporary society and the gap between what we imagine and what we actually manage to create,” says Prof. Farwell. For more info: http://www.aperture.org/exhibition/aperture-summer-open-exhibition/ (’til August 13)
Jewelry Design Chair, Wendy Yothers: “Frida Kahlo: Art, Garden, Life” at the Bronx Botanical Gardens. We can’t ever seem to get enough of this intriguing artist! For more info: www.nybg.org/frida/
I have two recommendations to add to the list. The first is, “Everything is Design: The Work of Paul Rand,” at the Museum of the City of New York. Paul Rand was such an influencer of the design world of the 1930s. It was Rand who brought European influences such as Cubism and avant garde to American design. For more info: http://www.mcny.org/exhibition/everything-design
Report from the Summer Institute on Sustainability in Fashion & Textiles
Jorg Hartmann, from machinery vendor Stoll, started his talk by showing copies of a well-worn 1880s pair of jeans bought at auction for $60,000. The jeans were copied and the look started a somewhat eco-hostile fashion idea: clothing that is almost worn-out when bought new.
Jorg said he himself used to buy jeans, rub them on the rough basement floor and run them through the washing machine to get the look. When the industry started to sell them that way, it found it had to use virgin material because consumers favor stuff that looked distressed but had never been worn.
He dryly observed that we’re in an age of “fashion democracy.” To follow the votes, the denim industry went through three stages: first companies sewed a pair of new jeans and washed them as destructively as they could.
Then there was the manual method, where skilled workers pulled, tugged, laser-distressed, soiled, bleached and dirtied, and then washed new jeans. That’s dangerous work, and also leads to quite a bit of energy use and environmental pollution.
Now the industry has a knitting machine from Stoll that does all this automatically, and in a scrapless way as well. Who knew? Knitted distressed “denim!”
Acting Associate Dean Sass Brown welcomed three dozen industry members to the second annual Sustainability and Textiles Summer Institute June 8. The four-day program introduces designers and others from around the world to practical ways of minimizing the industry’s carbon footprint.
The Institute began with Paul Dillinger, Head of Global Product Innovation at Levis Strauss & Co. Dillinger emphasized the adoption of a broad view of sustainability over a “single component” strategy.
“Most solutions in sustainability,” said Dillinger, seek to fix the weakest single component. “But it’s a lot of different components that create an impact.”
He took on critics of water-intensive cotton. “Let’s get rid of cotton. Yes! However, think about the global economies of the top 10 producing cotton countries,” warned Dillinger. Many are poor countries “for which cotton is a linchpin of their economies. If we wean ourselves suddenly of cotton because of the tremendous impact on resources, we would throw them into chaos.”
But that doesn’t mean an important environmental change isn’t forthcoming. “There will come a time when the value of an acre-yield for domestic [food] consumption will be worth more [than] that same acre will yield cotton…We must be prepared around the re-deployment of resources.”
Hence we can all make a living. “There’s a thinking that doing the right thing and doing the profitable thing is incongruous,” said Dillinger.
He suggested that designers need to bring back some cache to long-term attachment to clothing. “An important feature of sustainability strategy is how can you craft clothing that achieves emotional durability …rather than be a candy wrapper in six months,” said Dillinger. “Make it pretty and mitigate the impact on where your kids are going to live.”
The Graphic Design Junior Show in May–referred to as “the student production”–inventively showcased work that ranged from conceptual, to what might be found in a retail environment. Two sections of graphic design juniors worked together to create an exhibit flow that kept viewers in motion–moving from hands-on displays, to interactive media to posters and book covers.
“It was a joyous way for the students to share their educational process with the FIT community,” said Communication Design Prof. Elvin Kince, the show’s advisor.
The flow didn’t just simulate a gallery-feel, but kept viewers engaged and occupied.
“I thought it was fantastic,” said Communication Design Prof. Donna David. “What struck me most was how they displayed the work. They considered context, like books on bookshelves. They used tabletops and innovative displays. All that is important because design work can’t sit in a vacuum.”
Some works hung from frames of plastic tubing. “The work seemed to float within it,” said Prof. David.
Among the provocative works on display:
Daniel Lisowski’s poster set for an “autonomous school,” one that is self-governing, he explained. “It’s a shared and fairer education, in parallel–not doing things normally. It’s mostly from a European mentality of what graphic design is.” Lisowski says the impetuous for his work comes from “being very ambivalent about American graphic design education.”
A concern that Do Kyun Kim (above) addressed is the connection of the New York Public Library to its public. “There’s not a strong connection between the NYPL and Manhattan itself. Manhattan is composed of all straight and vertical lines, which creates a rectangular shape. So I developed a system by getting rid of all diagonals.”
“The graphics in the junior show have a level of diversity that’s very impressive,” says packaging design student Sasha Baw Dusky who came to view the show.
The displays “encompass a full spectrum of educational experiences such as site design and planning, group dynamics, teamwork, goal setting, individual review and presentation, time management and financial planning,” said Prof. Kince.
Sarsha Brown (above) explained the inspiration for her posters. “The project called for us to pick a symposium and design a set of three posters to advertise it. The posters had to work together and separately. I chose the Domestic Human Sex Trafficking Symposium to be held at the YWCA. My inspiration came from the TV show ‘Once Upon a Time’ that manipulates fairy tales into over lapping storylines.
“I used Peter Pan, Little Red Riding Hood, Beauty and the Beast, and Pinocchio,” said Brown. “Originally, these stories were depressing until Disney fantasized them. I stuck with the grim connotations and combined them with the Disney appearances that everyone knows. I used this familiarity to build readability, to draw people in.”
“Sarsha’s concept was to get people to think about the fear that the original stories stimulated and to have a conversation about what fear is,” said Kince. “She used some familiar fairy tale figures to attract viewers and then used the shadows and body parts extending from outside the frame to suggest danger from the unknown and unseen.”
Prof. David lauded the students’ ability to think of the work in relation to the viewer. They elevated their work, she said, by how it was displayed. “It took things to another level.”
Eduardo Mendez described his work as a response to “how a minor change in global temperature can cause major disasters.”
Prof. Kince praised Eduardo’s “natural instincts of the Old Masters in graphic design and typography. His sense of abstraction is like that of an old soul, almost as if he’s obsessed.”
Michelle Walliser explored bulimia prevention. Her poster includes the dictionary pronunciation of bulimia. “It’s typography-based because English is not my first language. I thought it was interesting how different the pronunciation is written from the actually word. It makes you think. It draws viewers closer.”
Prof. Kince said the exhibit benefited by a change of focus. “The exhibit is no longer dependent on faculty critiques as a measure of success. This makes the process more dependent upon student involvement and student energy.”
When it comes to having your accomplishments acknowledged, being a college junior can be like that of a middle child. “The seniors have a graduating show. The associate degree students have a show. What the juniors need is feedback,” says Photography Prof. Curtis Willocks. “They had this intense year. They learned a lot, applied a lot. They just need feedback from the outside world on what they’re producing.”
Each of Willocks’ Projects in Advanced Style and Media students “produced” a book or magazine based on a 15-week personal project, work from a large-scale Coney Island photo shoot, and much more.
“My experience with the industry critique was amazing,” says Alejandra Lopez, who has a strong focus on fashion. “It was a great opportunity for us students. I got so much feedback on my work from industry professionals, which will definitely help me improve my work,” she said.
“I met inspiring people who shared new insights with me. It was very beneficial,” said Alex Golshani, whose work details daily occurrences of New York City life. “I made a contact with someone interested in my work whom I’ll be meeting with again this summer,” he said.
“I was very impressed with the students’ ability to describe their work and photography goals,” says Jennifer Permutter, Creative Consultant for Agency Access who came to critique. “There are so many ways to be involved in the photographic community upon graduation and all of the students had a good handle on that.”
Perlmutter said she was especially taken by portfolios that reflected strong vision, such as Irene Espinosa’s lifestyle-portrait and Trupal Pandya‘s documentary-portrait portfolios.
“I believe that to make it in this industry you need a strong vision that represents the work you want to create, not what others want you to create,” she says.
The Advaced Styling and Media class, for which Willocks developed the syllabus, focuses strongly on networking with industry and within the School itself. For one project, students created portfolios that were distributed to Fashion, Accessories and Packaging Design students. Those students in turn chose photographers who were right for photographing their own creative work.
Then there was the fashion photo shoot that started at 7 am in the dead of winter. And then the Coney Island extravaganza. “We had a stylist, six dancers and models. Profoto brought location lights, Phaseone brought high-end, medium format cameras,” says Willocks who still seems in awe of the enormity of it. (Watch for an upcoming post with video about this event.)
“Their work as a whole displayed a wide range of styles and skill levels,” said Steven Hellerstein, another of the critics. “There was an abundance of individuality. The work was very representative of each student’s vision and how they see the world. I got the feeling that the students are very ‘in the moment’ and figuring out how the skills that they are learning will benefit them longer term,” he said.
“I got tips and advice about how the industry works,” says Lopez. “I talked to amazing, interesting people willing to answer any question I had. They gave me advice on moving forward with my work once I graduate. I increased my knowledge of how the industry works and whom to approach in different situations.”
Says Perlmutter, “I look forward to seeing how these students progress including those who are still fine-tuning their artistic vision. It is clear Curtis has given these students direction and they are eager to take it and run with it.”
Definition of SUNY Chancellor’s Awards for Excellence: “A system-level honor conferred to acknowledge and provide system-wide recognition for consistently superior professional achievement and to encourage the ongoing pursuit of excellence.”
Definition of 2015 SUNY Chancellor Award Winner for Excellence in Classified Service at Fashion Institute of Technology:
At the FIT staff luncheon on April 29, College President Joyce Brown introduced Ms. Levy-Birnbaum as the recipient of the 2015 SUNY Chancellor Award for Classified Service. An alumna of FIT, Ms. Levy-Birnbaum serves as assistant to the dean of the School of Art and Design. She has worked at the college since 1982.
In her introduction, President Brown spoke of Ms. Levy-Birnbaum’s extensive knowledge of the college, its history, management, policies, budget, procedures and of each of the 17 School of Art and Design programs. “And that’s the short list!” she said.
Ms. Levy Birnbaum was recognized for the exemplary service she provides to the dean, associate dean, department chairs, faculty and students. Her habit of never saying “no,” has led to her wearing a second hat as School event coordinator. She is “the point-person who, with always a smile on her face, assures that all the loose ends are neatly tied up,” said Dr. Brown.
Art and Design department chairs piled on much exuberant praise:
“We chairs are responsible for our own ‘corners of the world’ at FIT,” said Suzanne Anoushian, Chair of Communication Design. “Darlene is aware of all of them. And what she does for me she does for every other chair of the School. She knows all our stories, all our department nuances and budget idiosyncrasies…Darlene keeps track of everything!”
“Darlene is a rare employee who goes beyond what people ask for and pro-actively assess the needs and issues of the departments,” said Craig Berger, Chair of Visual Presentation and Exhibition Design.
The celebration coincided with the college’s 70th birthday, which meant plenty of cake and a lot to reflect on.
“I must attribute, to a very great extent, my success and the success of our department to the time spent under Darlene’s tutelage,” said former Chair of Jewelry Design Michael Coan.
Said the President “She performs all of her tasks not only efficiently, but graciously, making everyone, from student, to faculty to visiting VIP, feel well-served and welcome,” said Dr. Brown.
And don’t we know it!
“Darlene makes everything look so easy and effortless,” said Dean Joanne Arbuckle. “I am well aware that it is all part of the ‘magic” Darlene performs each day!”
This year’s Fine Arts thesis exhibit, “Not Gonna Hold Your Hand,” includes the work of the 17 BFA graduating seniors. The “defiant and exultant” title, says Prof. Joel Werring, was chosen by the students. It suggests “This is my life. I’m ready, and I’m going to shape it.”
This backstage look shows the contemplative and often very physical involvement of students with their work in the days prior to the exhibit.
“Over the past two years students have explored their ideas, content, and imagery through experimentation and a range of approaches and methods,”says Werring who serves as Assistant Fine Arts Chair.
Some finishing touches required a long reach. Gravity-defying Fine Arts senior AJ Springer, in action below.
The student work captures “visceral and personal experiences with place, home, identity, ethnicity, psychology, philosophy, and spirituality,” says Werring.
Werring worked with senior thesis students in painting. “The show both toys with and requires the active participation of its audience. “The theme speaks to the difficulty of attaining consonance between an artist’s intent and the viewer’s understanding of the work.
“It dares the viewers to cultivate their own understanding of each piece without being told its meaning by the artist. Similarly, it is an intimation to the artists themselves that the world will be expecting the same rigor and presence of each of them once they step out.”
“While preparing for this exhibition in the midst of multiple social and cultural influences and in close proximity to Chelsea’s art galleries, students developed a greater awareness of the challenges and opportunities ahead,” says Werring.
The students are poised to contribute to the world “as creators, divergent thinkers, and problem solvers,” says Werring.
The Fine Arts department’s senior exhibit, “Not Gonna Hold Your Hand,” is part of the 2015 Art and Design Graduating Student Exhibit being held from May 6 – 21, 2015. Viewing in is located in the John E. Reeves Great Hall, is from 9:00 am – 9:00 pm.