I swear I now have manly lumberjack sausage fingers. This dress had so much more hand sewing than I was expecting and even with a thimble, sewing through layers upon layers of fusible, fabric, bobbinet and buckram is just plain misery. Seriously, who knew it was possible to get DOMS in your fingers!!! YOUR FINGERS!!!
But anyway… off to the sewing of the zipper!!
I had quite a dilemma figuring out which zipper I wanted to use. Typically I default to using invisible zippers because first off, it is invisible and then second, the invisible zipper sewing foot makes putting in a zipper the easiest thing you’ve ever done. The only downside of an invisible zipper is the teeth of the zipper tend to falter when too much stress is put on it aka it isn’t that strong and the zipper can/will break.
Chris had this exact problem because of how heavy both of his looks were so he had to change to a lap zipper. The last time I did a lap zipper was the dicky in 1st semester… which I’m pretty sure I got a B- on so I’m sure you get the rest. Instead, I opted to look into using an exposed zipper that would be a visible fixture/element/detail/whatever on my dress.
Typically an exposed zipper is not at all ideal for an ”evening gown” but my dress is not exactly the most traditional of special occasion dresses, so luckily I can get away with it.
Pacific is my absolute favorite place to go to for zippers because they carry the biggest selection of RiRi zippers I have ever seen in NYC. The quality and craftsmanship of a RiRi zipper is to die for. The price not so much, as one zipper can run you about $10 to $30, but seriously when you spend hundreds of dollars making a garment you mind as well go all out. I think I could go on all day about why RiRi zippers are so amazing, but you really just have to see for yourself to understand.
I wasn’t sure how wide I wanted the teeth to be so I ended up buying two different widths of zippers. I didn’t want the exposed zipper to go past the bodice of my dress because the heaviness of the zipper would probably weight down the bobbinet dress in an unflattering manner so I got a separating zipper.
The winner ended up being the thinner zipper teeth and because I wasn’t terribly keen on shoving the entire dress under the sewing machine, I hand sewed the zipper in with a really close pick stitch.
I had also ordered and bought a bunch of Swarovski crystals that were originally suppose to be scatter all over my dress, but my friends all thinks it would take away from the design so sadly I had to let that aspect of my design go. At least on the bright side, I have one less thing to do on my already incredibly full plate. The little monster is 3 hand sewn seams away from being finished which means in about 5 – 8 hours, I should be done and then it is off to work on my second dress. Who knew the day would finally come.
We’re in the home stretch everybody. 4 DAYS UNTIL D-DAY!!!
A Few Zipper Resources
218 W 38 St (7th ave & 38th Street)
New York, NY 10018
http://www.pacifictrimming.com/ Huge supply of RiRi zippers.
251 West 39th Street
New York, NY 10018
http://www.daytonatrim.com/web/ Sells 22” invisible zippers in a large array of colors for $ .99.
257 W 38th St (between 7th Ave & 8th Ave)
New York, NY 10018
http://silthreadinc.com/ Haven’t been here for zippers, but they sell another brand of luxury zippers by YYK called Excella as well as plenty of regular YYK zippers. If you need a zipper cut down and didn’t buy it from them, they will do it for a $1.00. Edit: Went here this past week for zippers, they have the biggest selection of invisible zippers I have ever seen. Literally over 50 colors. All for $1 too! Sil has won me over, however I’m not very impressed with the quality of Excella. In my own opinion RiRi is still much, much nicer.