Fashion’s Economic Impact

I was delighted that Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney chose FIT as the place to unveil a new report showing the economic impact—$887 million, in fact—of New York Fashion Week. She was here on February 6, a week before that glorious designer showcase—a perfect time to celebrate fashion in New York City. Fashion is, after all, a signature industry for our city, one that people the world over identify with New York.

Representative Caroline Maloney does a press conference at FIT

In her FIT press conference, Congresswoman Maloney emphasized the industry’s impact on the city’s economy: it employs more than 180,000 people, including 16,000 in manufacturing jobs, and generates almost $2 billion in tax revenue each year. More than 900 fashion companies have their headquarters here.

As a member of Mayor’s Fashion Working Group, I know how important it is, as well, to tout the industry’s strength, its primacy, its huge economic impact—not to mention glamour—and to help maintain the city as fashion’s global capital.

But I really have to point out: it all starts at FIT. Seventy years ago, a small group of visionary industry leaders opened the doors to a new institute to secure their industry’s future. Out of that bold move, we have, today, Michael Kors and Norma Kamali, Calvin Klein and Nanette Lepore…Ralph Rucci…Francisco Costa…and of course Karolina Zmarlak, who was honored at Congresswoman Maloney’s event. Karolina, a Polish American designer, is a proud 2007 alumna who has built a successful fashion brand in New York. She is among the tens of thousands of gifted alumni who populate every level of the design industry.

As the Congresswoman said, “Here in New York City, fashion is big business,” and she noted, “FIT faculty and students are some of the most creative, dedicated and talented people in the industry.”

I could not agree more and, as president of FIT, I was especially pleased to tell the audience about the college’s 81 percent job placement rate. The vast majority of alumni not only get positions in the fields in which they studied, but they work and stay here in New York City. Which only reinforces my point—it really does all start here.

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“Snow” Nice to be Back at Work

I do not envy Mayor De Blasio or Governor Cuomo today. One “failed” snow storm—and they are criticized, castigated, berated, and blamed for making what their fault-finders call a bad decision.

As we all know, the city was shut down late Monday and Tuesday—the roads closed and, in an unprecedented move, the subways shut down as well. FIT closed on Monday at 2:00 pm and remained closed all day and evening on Tuesday. As we all know, the monster blizzard turned out to be a much gentler weather event for the city, with gusty winds and about eight inches of snow. Long Island and New England were battered by the storm—and I suspect residents there were grateful that their elected leaders took all necessary precautions.

I am not responsible for millions of people as are the mayor and the governor. I am, however, responsible for the safety and security of 10,000 FIT students and 1,700 employees and I take that responsibility very seriously. Keeping the college open or closed under these circumstances will always have consequences, and the consequence I will always want to avoid is one affecting anyone’s safety.

I recognize that the mayor and governor walk a tight-rope when dealing with weather predictions and completely sympathize with their decision to…as they say…err on the side of caution. I believe that if the brunt of the storm had veered just a bit more to the west, the critics would today be hailing the mayor and governor as heroes. New York City was lucky. It’s as simple as that. Were we inconvenienced here at FIT? We were. Classes were cancelled, meetings postponed. Our valiant Buildings and Grounds crew was on duty throughout the storm—Monday and Tuesday—keeping the grounds safe; Aramark workers maintained food service for our students. Considering all, I think we have nothing to complain about and I am delighted to be back at my desk on this frigid but sunny day.

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Free Community Colleges

In 2012, in the heat of a presidential election campaign, President Obama made the apparent mistake of wishing out loud that all of our nation’s children could have the opportunity to go to college. That would seem like a fairly innocent, “American as apple pie” kind of wish, but not in this highly divided nation, and certainly not in the midst of a political year. He was attacked by his opponents as a “snob” and an “elitist”—and colleges, by the way, were also attacked as being a flagrant waste of money.

So here we are, three years later. President Obama—re-elected despite his elitism—has turned his wish into a concrete proposal to make community colleges tuition-free throughout the nation. The basic outline includes a $60 billion investment over the next 10 years to cover tuition for students who maintain a 2.5 GPA. While Washington would pay for the majority of the costs—75 percent—the states that participate would cover the rest. The president projects that the program, if enacted by Congress—a very big “if” of course—as many as nine million students would benefit.

Naturally, this proposal has been greeted with skepticism; many political observers simply say it is dead-in-the-water given the general polarization in Washington. But this is really a big idea—a visionary idea—one that may have enough strength to influence the national conversation about the role of higher education today in America, its role in our globalized economy and in any attempt to reach equity for so many of our nation’s underserved populations. As one economic analyst said, “…nothing may have a greater effect on the future of living standards than education policy.”

A number of observers have pointed out that what the president really wants to do is make two years of college the norm for students today—the same way that four years of high school became the norm for American students at the start of the 20th century—a time when the country was rapidly evolving out of its agrarian roots. His wish—his vision—should come as no surprise. Throughout his presidency, he and Mrs. Obama have aggressively promoted higher education both through their thoughtful presentations and their on-the-ground programs. While the naysayers are already nit-picking details of the president’s plan (many of which have yet to be revealed), they are not—I am pleased to note—being vitriolic in the way that they were during the 2012 campaign. I am sure there will be plenty of opportunity and even legitimate reason, once the plan is fully unveiled, to debate its details. But I hope that it is a serious debate—one that does justice to the power of this vision—a vision that reinforces the optimism of our sometimes elusive American dream.

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A Gift of Gordon Parks

Gordon Parks, circa 1980s; Photo by Morris Lane
Gordon Parks, circa 1980s; Photo by Morris Lane

Last month, I received a five-volume boxed set of the collected works of Gordon Parks. It came out of the blue—as a gift from the publisher, Gerhard Steidl, and Dr. Thomas Schwarz, the president of SUNY/Purchase, which is where the Gordon Parks Foundation is housed.

It is a magnificent collection—one that reflects the arc of an artistic career that almost defies description. Gordon Parks was a photographer, musician, author, poet, and filmmaker—a pioneering story-teller with an unerring eye, acute intellect, and empathetic heart. He was the first African-American photographer to work at Life and Vogue magazines; the first African-American to work for the Office of War Information during WWII and the Farm Security Administration; and in bringing his novel The Learning Tree to the screen, the first to write, direct, and produce a film for a major motion picture company. He was a Renaissance man.

At Life magazine, where he worked for 20 years, one might say he covered the waterfront: fashion, crime, entertainers, society, the civil rights movement, Benedictine monks, and Harlem gangs. Most notable, perhaps, were his heart-rending photo essays on the hidden worlds of the poor, the marginalized, and the oppressed, as the senior curator at the Corcoran Gallery of Art points out in these volumes. “His stories transported readers not only to other places and to the diversity of their fellow humanity, but to a better sense of themselves.”

Ten years ago, FIT recognized Gordon Parks with an honorary degree from SUNY at our 2004 commencement ceremony. Already 92 years old, he was still actively involved in his many pursuits—gracious, lively, and delightful. At a luncheon following the ceremony (held in the employee dining room in Dubinsky), we surprised him with a performance by his old friend, the renowned jazz artist Grady Tate, playing “Don’t Misunderstand”—with words and music by Gordon Parks himself. It was a real treat for everyone present.

These five volumes offer a survey of his entire 70 year career, including work from years long before and years long after his tenure at Life. Some are iconic and are among the most memorable visual symbols of moments in time, of individuals. They range from explorations of New York’s old Fulton fish market to South American hovels to landscapes and abstractions. In color or black and white, these photographs have universal reach. The volumes also contain enlightening essays from colleagues at Life, art historians and other scholars—as well as from Parks himself.

I am ever grateful to Dr. Schwarz and the publisher for this gift. The books will reside in the Gladys Marcus Library where I hope they will provide insight and pleasure to all who reach for them.

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Season’s Greet-inks!


With the opening last night of FIT’s second annual holiday pop-up shop, I believe that the college has established a new tradition. And given that we are also celebrating FIT’s 70th anniversary this year, this is a particularly lovely and appropriate tradition to establish. It brings together students, staff, faculty—a great curricular challenge—and philanthropy, all in the spirit of the season.

The holiday pop-up shop—designed, fabricated, and installed by third-semester students in the Visual Presentation and Exhibition Design (VPED) program—is a collaboration between FIT and The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering’s thrift shop. Last year, when we produced it for the first time, the shop raised an amazing $35,000 for the hospital in just five days.

The shop is located in the Pomerantz lobby and occupies no more than 600 square feet, but it is filled with a bounty of vintage luxury goodies from The Society Boutique. You’ll find many high-end designer labels on clothing, jewelry, handbags and other accessories as well as unique gift items—all at bargain prices.

Its stock (and bargains) notwithstanding, this pop-up shop is worth a visit, if only for the visuals. It is almost like performance art! The theme—Season’s Greet-inks—is a play on words on old-fashioned holiday tattoo images. And you can see them throughout—from the giant pin-up “girls” in Santa hats at the entrance to product hang-tags, shopping bags, and window displays. Temporary tattoos are on sale as well. The shop also features woodland animals—evoking a fantasy forest environment. A total of 36 VPED students submitted twelve proposals for themes to The Society Boutique team who chose Season’s Greet-inks. Once this theme was chosen, all of the students went to work to put the shop together.

The shop is staffed by FMM students in the Merchandising Society, which operates the college’s Style Shop.

As it happens, the curriculum for third semester VPED students focuses on retail and display, according to the program’s chair, Professor Craig Berger, and Professors Anne Kong and Mary Costantini, who all worked with these students throughout the process. So the pop-up shop project is a kind of hands-on culmination of their studies.

Seasons Greet-inks will be open to the public from Wednesday, December 10 through Saturday, December 13. Hours are 11am to 8pm, except on Saturday, when the shop will close at 7:30pm. All of of the proceeds will go to Memorial Sloan Kettering—so this is one time that I will join the retail choir and sing: Shop Till You Drop!

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