Some parts of a garment can be exempt from the fiber content disclosure. These include:
1) Thread that hold the garment together
2) Trims and findings, such as elastic (only if it doesn’t exceed 20 percent of the surface area), waist or wrist bands, rick-rack, tape, belting, binding, gussets, drawstrings, gores, welts, collars, cuffs
3) Lining (unless used for warmth)
4) Small ornamentation and decorative trim applied by embroidery, overlay, appliqué, or attachment, and only if the decoration doesn’t exceed 15 percent of the surface area of the item.
If decorations or ornamentation exceed 15 percent of the surface area of the product and are made of a different fiber from the base fabric, the fiber of the decoration must be disclosed on the label as “exclusive of decoration or ornamentation”. For example, if you have a 100% silk top decorated with trim appliqué and embroidery that covers 10% of the blouse, the label most say:
100% Silk
Exclusive of Decoration (or Ornamentation)
Or
All Silk
Exclusive of Decoration (or Ornamentation)
Or
Body – 100% Silk
Decoration (or Ornamentation) – 100% Polyester
If you produce a silk blouse with decorative polyester trim appliqué and embroidery that covers 20 percent of the shirt. The label must disclose the content of both the garment and the trim, the label most say,
Body – 100% Cotton
Decoration (or Ornamentation) – 100% Silk
Therefore, if the decorative trim or ornaments exceeds 15 percent of the surface area of the product or five percent of the fiber weight of the fabric, its fiber content has to be disclosed. If it is less the label has to state “exclusive of decoration” or “exclusive of ornamentation.”
Svetlana Zakharina teaches SXF 201: Advanced Style, Plan, and Merchandise- From Concept to Production and SXF 240: The Complete Guide to Global Sourcing.
Source: Labeling Requirements under the Textile and Wool Acts, www.ftc.gov.