Tag Archives: chiffon

Lace, ripped chiffon ruffles, and diamond quilting- These are a few of my favorite things

I must admit, 7 weeks ago I had a life. I used to go see movies, I had friends, and even showered on a regular basis.  Now those things are gone and have been replaced with a senior collection.  Is it worth it?  I sure as heck hope so.

These past few weeks have been the hardest to date.  I wasn’t really sure how I was going to knock out a masterpiece in 5 weeks, but BOO YA, it happened.  This semester has already had a couple set backs.  We missed the second day of class due to a snow day.  Then half of the class missed an entire week of class when we went to Las Vegas for the Curve Expo.  Of course, then we had President’s Day on a Monday and there went yet ANOTHER class.  I have chosen to blame this absence of class time for the craziness that ensued the last two weeks.  First off, we come in on Saturday…. every Saturday.  That said, our Professor is just as dedicated as we are, as she also comes in on Saturday mornings to see our progress and make changes.  After all, if you were going to have to start over, wouldn’t you rather know Saturday than Monday?  We’ve also discovered this amazing new feature FIT has introduced called 24-hour lab availability.  With a simple signed letter on an FIT letterhead that lists all of the students names we are able to stay past the restricting 2am deadline, and work up until the next class arrives at 9am.  Longest amount of consecutive hours in C714? That award would have to go to Francielle.  I’m fairly certain that in the last week, she has only left that room for food and energy drinks.  Many of the students prefer to work from their apartments because they are commuters and have dress forms in their rooms.  This is always my favorite because on presentation day, you have about 8-9 garments on the forms that you’ve never seen before.  SURPRISE!

First ensemble was set to be due on Monday, March 14th.  Given the state of everyone’s garments,  the professor extended the date to Wednesday, March 16th.  Our critic, Flora Nikrooz visited on Wednesday to see the finished garments and had only nice things to say about everyone’s ensembles.  She really Oohed and Awed over a couple, but maintained a pretty good poker face throughout.  Thus, the candidates for Critic Award will remain a mystery to us all.

From here it only gets worse.  Most of the class still has to finish up their robes for Monday and EVERYONE still has HOURS of beading to do. Our second ensemble, made of 95% Cotton, is due 3 weeks and 3 days from today.  How am I feeling?  I feel very similarly to the time I flipped my father’s four wheeler into a ditch and saw him RUNNING at me with a look of rage on his face:  I’m shaking in my boots.

My cotton ensemble is actually more difficult than my first ensemble.  It consists of four pieces: A long-line bra, garter, panty, and petticoat robe.  I still have to go shopping for fabric, and if it is any sign of what is to come, I actually DREAMED about buying cotton tulle last night.  In the dream everyone in the city sold out of it and I was forced to buy it from Mood for $183/yd.  (They jacked up the priced because of high demand.)  Hopefully is was only a dream as I will be needing atleast 10 yards.

My roommate questions my existence since I am never home.  Needless to say, the doorman to my apartment must think I’m a hardcore party girl: I come home at 4:30 in the morning looking haggard and slightly stumbling, mumbling nonsense about ripped chiffon ruffles…

The Cape Saga Pt. II: The Coolest Thing Ever Done With Chiffon…EVER*

The readers have spoken…

I'm writing, Lil' Humphrey, I'm writing! He can hardly contain himself.

I'm writing, Lil' Humphrey, I'm writing! He can hardly contain himself.

and I have responded! Fasten your seat belts folks, it’s time for another installment of the juicy, the sexy, the riveting, the awe-inspiring, soon-to-be-bestseller-thanks-in-large-part-to-teenage-girls-everywhere…The Twilight Cape Saga! I’m sure you’ve all been waiting as eagerly as my new pal, Lil’ Humphrey. (more on him in a later post) so let me not keep you any longer.

Onward to the gut-wrenching epic tale of woman vs fabric.

Cutting the chiffon was just the beginning. I knew I was in for a ride-and what a wild ride it was! Let’s take a gander at some of the highlights:

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What do you mean, you didn't finish reading that article?! Ooops!

1. Time for everyone’s favorite technique.  Yes, that’s right: sewing to paper!

Now, some of you might be wondering, “is this really necessary? ” and to that I say, no. That’s right, you don’t have to do it at all….if you’re not worried about running the serious risk  of having your fabric:

-torn

-snagged

-uglified

-sucked into a vast gaping vortex of death…kind of like this:

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The presser foot hovers anxiously above the whirlpool, praying it will not be next...

Observe, this oh-so-haunting photo with it’s poor focus artistic blur,  and the eerie diffused ghost-like glow emanating from the dark depths of th- okay, you get it. This is what you don’t want. Jeeze, the things I do to make a point. Are we clear? Paper is your friend.

untitled-0-00-00-21 2. To quote the famed line from Hamlet, “to pearl or not to pearl…” Okay, that might’ve been slightly altered from the original and… not as profound but, work with me. I do think it can be a nice finish on things but I’ve just never thought of a pearl finish as, uh, “sportswear-y”. Know what I mean? Anyway, I figured I’d try it out and see if my mind changed.

My cape has two layers of chiffon so I tried to baby hem one (turn it up the tiniest bit to stitch), which looked amazing until….it didn’t. And then pearl the other.  Then genius struck me. Dare I marry the two?!?!?!  Muah, ha, ha! To my knowledge this is a sportswear first (I’m not that knowledgeable). What I’ve settled on doing is actually turning up up my pearled hem and stitching it that way. Take that, demon textile! And more, for I could not simply be satisfied with taming the mighty beast-oh no. I did not claim a true victory until I had beat, beat, beat it into a bloody submission. And so it was, the wheels of my ingenious mind kept turning and turning until at long last….Eureka!!

3. The original design of my cape had a front panel that was meant to be a rib. Alas:

-I couldn’t find what I needed ready-made and affordable ($59.99 a yard for a rib knit? Surely, you jest?), and,

-though I had planned on doing a lot of my own knitting (GASP!), I’ve recently moved but my machine-knitting tools didn’t come with. Also,

-It would take me FOR-EV-ER to do it by hand. Man, it’s a good thing I don’t even know how!

-Crochet, on the other hand, I can do; but where to find matching…. ::::eyes pile of fabric and light bulb goes on:::…..yarn….????

The fabric never saw me coming….

Prepare to witness a momentous occasion folks. At least it was for me anyway. It’s something I’ve only ever dreamed of doing, and here was my opportunity. Follow along and prepare to be amazed.

The bane of my existance...glad I'm not in Eveningwear with all the skilled people...

That ol' familiar fabric + "the holy grail of scissors"=

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......One long continuous strip + (WAIT FOR IT!!!!) CROCHET HOOK (?????)=

Whah, bam, thank you Ma'am!

Whah, bam, thank you Ma'am!



The CliffsNotes version of the point of this whole post. Any Questions?

The CliffsNotes version of the point of this whole post. Any Questions?

*Alternate titles for this post: “Say my Name, Chiffon. Say it!!!!,” and  “How I Kicked Chiffon’s A- and Made it my B-” …just something to think about…

Now sing it with me guys, “follow the yellow silk road…”

The Cape Saga Pt. I: The Trouble with Chiffon

The bane of my existance...glad I'm not in Eveningwear with all the skilled people...

The bane of my existence...glad I'm not in Eveningwear with all the skilled people...

Dear Chiffon,

I hate you.

-Yissel

*********

Working with Chiffon is bittersweet.

Yes, it looks beautiful in a garment, all flowing, layered, ruffled, gathered, maybe even fluted… A+ on the finished product every time, but boy…little does the average person know how much actual work is involved when you’re working with the stuff. I mean, if you want it to look as nice as possible. Let me show what I mean….

1) For starters, I can’t simply lay my fabric out,  lay my pattern over it and cut, the way I did with the pants in my first post. Yes, we’ve reached the groaning portion of the post. Welcome everyone’s favorite technique: Cutting to paper! YAY (Ugh)!  What we’d normally do in this situation is lay a big sheet of pattern paper under the chiffon and lay the pattern on top, pin the crap out of it and THEN cut. Why? Because chiffon is a slippery little b– uh… thing. You’re not even supposed to cut multiple layers at a time-but I said to heck with that as you’ll soon see*.

Problem: Was working at home and forgot my pattern paper.

Solution: A little ingenuity, a lot of pins, and the sports section….

Ooooh...it looks like a print! Alas, it's just a week-old free paper

Ooooh...it looks like a print! Alas, it's just a week-old free paper

Ahhh, 0ne hour, 8 spreads, 30 pins and a few choice curse words later, I managed to prep my fabric and pattern for cutting.

And what a simple, yet ingenious  piece of pattering marvel it is!!! Behold, the beginnings of what is to be a very elegant cape. What makes me so clever you ask? Well, not only have I *sandwiched my [news]paper between 4 (that’s right) layers of chiffon, but I’ve layed my pattern out and designed it so that the back is on the fold and the front on the selvage! Yes! Less seam finishes for me!

Side note: Capes: They’re great. In a future post I’ll be discussing the fact that all the cool kids are makin’ ‘em. (at least in my class anyway)

Now I just need to iron my actual paper pattern...joy

Now I just need to iron my actual paper pattern...joy

Yes, my phone does in fact read "1:12 AM." Good times...

Yes, my phone does in fact read "1:12 AM." Good times...

2)Enter: New Problem. Good design students and crafters alike have more than one pair of scissors. For the most part, everyone has about two: one for paper and one for fabric. Aaaah, you see where I’m going with this?

Presumably, majority might vote for the fabric scissors but…to sully my sexy sheers? Cripple my classy cutters? …F– up my fancy forbici (Italian for “scissors”)?!?!

What’s a girl to do? (Other than give away free advertising for ghinger?)

Note: In the industry, they’d lay this stuff out like 100-pile high, let it rest over night, then cut it with a laser. A friggin’ LASER. How do I get my hands on a laser?

Good scissors are an investment

Good scissors are an investment

The Age-Old Dilema: Fabric or Paper scissors? Fabric! Paper! Fabric! Paper.... It's too much!!!!

The Age-Old Dilema: Fabric or Paper scissors? Fabric! Paper! Fabric! Paper.... It's too much!!!!

Solution: Started with the paper scissors, then shunned them to the bottom of the toolbox after the shoddy job they did and regrettably switched to my fabric ones, which performed beautifully, only after I promised them they would be getting a top notch sharpening to make up for the abuse.  (I wont even show you the horrible job the other pair did. It’s just vulgar)

Voila!  Part one of the nightmare is finally over. Tune in for part II of “The Cape Saga.” When I go over having to sew this crap lovely, lovely fabric. ;-)

Genius idea for the future: Cut the cape out of super hero comic books!

Genius idea for the future: Cut the cape out of super hero comic books!