Last monday we had the awesome opportunity to leave Tuscany for a draping field trip to Perugia! The twelve of us piled into a full-size bus and traveled through Tuscany to the province of Umbria, where we made our first stop at a jersey design company Lemuria in the country side around Perugia.
We saw first hand how flats would be transformed into patterns and then from patterns into sewn garments. The coolest part for me was being able to see how cohesively each worker performed together. How no small job in the company was unimportant. From perfectly layering the fabric on the cutting machine, to creating precise patterns on the computer. If one job was done even slightly wrong, everything else after wouldn’t work. Which meant restarting and the loss of money. It was nice to see how seamlessly everyone worked together. How even though it was a company, there was a sense of family and community among the workers because of this reason.
After this we took a nice long lunch break and headed to the center of Perugia for our next stop at Brozzetti, a hand weaving laboratory in the ancient church of San Francesco Delle Donne. Here is a picture of an awesome stone bridge walkway on the way to the church.
The workshop was created by Giudetta Brozzetti in 1921, and with looms from 18th-20th century they produce textiles reminiscent of the Mediaeval and Renaissance tradition. Here’s a shot of the church and looms. Its crazy to think this church was built over 900 years ago and still stands. It’s also cool that it’s now one of the places that house this beautiful and dyeing craft.
Now working there was the Granddaughter of Giudetta Brozzetti. She showed us how all the different looms work, explaining what a difficult and laborious process weaving was. One large loom could take up to 12 days just to thread and setup! It also takes her two full days to weave only about one meter of fabric.
I thought the motion of the shuttle moving from right to left with the hundreds of lead needles moving up and down was super neat. Here is a shot of all the lead needles of jacquard loom threaded and ready to go.
On November 5-6th, we took an academic trip to one of the most beautiful places in Italy, Venice. In Venice, we visited one of the most prestigious contemporary art exhibitions, La Biennale, which includes the fine arts, film, architecture, music, performance, and more.
We split up into two groups when we got there, both included guided tours around the various pavilions. Our tour-guides were very insightful, as they explained the artists’ outlooks and artworks. My group started our tour in the British pavilion where we got to enjoy a delicious cup of tea on the building’s balcony. After touring around a few other pavilions, we were let to explore the grounds of the Biennale on our own.
There were artists from all over the world, from Europe, to South America, to Asia, many of which are very different from each other, however they all really captivated the essence of their countries’ traditions.
The Biennale is definitely an event to attend if you want to a universal collection of contemporary artwork. It was a good break from all the Renaissance Italian art that we’ve been seeing.
Hats were a sign of status or a job, aristocracy wore the ultimate fashions and fanciest designs, it was a sign of success and wealth. It was disrespectful to walk outside of the house not wearing one, it used to be the completion of the outfit, it was almost as necessary as wearing a corset during the eighteen hundreds.
Visiting Memar Millinery was a remarkable experience, to see the entire process of different types of hats being made. The Memar Millinery is one of the last 3 factories left in Italy that has the means to have production in house. This company has a long history and prestige, as hats have been a tradition in Italy from centuries. The factory started in 1903, it is a family owned business that has been passed down from generation to generation. Memar has vendors, all over the world. They have worked with Macys, Bloomingdales, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and many more.
The factory has kept itself going by sourcing new materials, coming up with new techniques and collaborations with high-end designers. This way not only the quality of the materials and production is something to admire but the enthusiasm and spirit of competition.
We had a tour around the millinery facilities. Witnessing the work it takes for a straw fedora to be sewn and the shaping of felt and straw hats. Most of the raw goods come from Italian land but other sources are also used.
At last, we got to be hands on and decorated a hat of our choice.
I am a big fan of accessories but specially hats, after this visit I have learned to have a better appreciation of the craft and skills required for this labor. Memar millinery not only has years of quality and experience, but also passion and heritage.