From butterflies, evergreens in the frigid tundra to high school uniforms and 18th century chantilly lace, senior design students reveal the under layers of their inspiration.
RUNWAY ALERT!:Selected work from graduating fashion design students will be presented at the Future of Fashion 2017 runway show. Specializations include sportswear, special occasion, knitwear, intimate apparel, and children’s wear. The runway show will be streamed live on FIT’s website here: #FITFashionShow
“I think human bodies look best when in motion,” says Illustrator Jianrong Lin, (’16), of “Momentum,” his series of athletes in the heat of competition. Lin’s exquisite work evokes images depicted on ancient Greek urns. “What men or gods are these?” one might be inspired to ask, as the poet John Keats did of the “mad pursuit” of gods and maidens.
“I used different body forms to convey power, speed, and flexibility. I made this composition [above] in an arc form to emphasize the speed and momentum of the athletes. Perhaps this is the moment right after the runners take off,” says Lin.
Since graduating Lin has created posters and medical illustrations for the pharmaceutical company Merck, a storyboard for an AT&T campaign and a restaurant mural. And more good news: one of his illustrations was accepted into this year’s Society of Illustrator’s Annual Student Show.
“The foundation of Jianrong’s fantastic work starts with his observation of things as they are, then translated into unique images. He has a sense of color that’s his own that comes from hard work and a love for what he does.” – Ed Soyka, Chair, Illustration
“These swimmers [above] would have just plunged into the water. To charge forward, they turn their bodies into waves,” says Lin.
“I know exceptionalism when I see it and it was obvious from the first class with Jianrong that he was in that category. – Bil Donovan, FIT Illustration professor and Society of Illustrators board member
“When I think of football, what comes to mind are strength, physical contacts, and how the players can be piled up in weird ways,” says Lin.
“What I learned from the illustration program is a combination of so many things. It can be a technique I learned in a life drawing class, or ways to observe the object I want to draw. It’s even some words a professor said to me that stuck in my head,” he says.
“Volleyball players will do everything to save the ball. I’m always fascinated by how they’re willing to get on the floor,” says Lin.
Meanwhile, “Yoga is all about flexibility and mindfulness, so I tried to keep the figures simple and soft, almost feather-like. The composition [below] was inspired by cabbages — You know when you cut those purple cabbages in half and discover the wonderful patterns!” says Lin.
“For sure, without what I learned in FIT’s illustration program, I wouldn’t be able to create this series. I’m very grateful for it.”
Says Ed Soyka, Chair of Illustration, “He took what he learned and translated it into a personal, creative and fantastic artistic vision of his own.”
“It’s culturally and visually so stimulating, the smells and sounds are all overwhelming in an incredible and good way,” says Photography Professor Jessica Wynne. She was mingling with the nine students she led through India as part of the International Photographic Study and Practice course this winter intersession. Upon viewing each others’ photographs at a reception outside the Great Hall, they talked in exuberant detail about their study abroad experience.
“We took a boat ride on the Ganges at dawn. Just nine of us on the boat. It was magical,” says David Western, a Fashion Merchandising Management major. “There are men who ride around with bird feed trying to get you to buy it to feed the birds. There are people washing clothes and bathing” he says.
“We were going non-stop from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. everyday,” says Prof. Wynne. “We started in Delhi, then went to Agra to the Taj Mahal. We flew to Varanasi, famous for the sacred pilgrimages to the Ganges.”
“The Ganges is a sacred river for Hindus. It’s the highest honor to be cremated there,” says Wynne. “Hindus believe if they are cremated on the banks of the Ganges River their soul will be free from the cycle of death and rebirth. It’s all happening at once; they bathe, wash their clothes, let children play, and at the same time they are burning bodies.”
Western, a rock climber and skier interested in travel and sports photography, said “It was an opportunity to learn more about myself as a photographer. I’ve photographed climbers in extreme conditions. This pushed me to work on different styles.” A theme he focused on was images captured through car windows.
“I wanted to explore how people react to the camera in the East versus the West,” said photography major Sophia Pavlatos, who decided to make the trip “because it was unconventional…It was incredible to see how open they were to my camera,” she said.
For the photo of the man on the outdoor bed (above) Pavlatos said “I let myself into his backyard in rural Delhi and he welcomed me with a natural pose.
“‘Namaste’ and a smile got me far enough,” she says.
“Before photographing them we spoke, a mixture of facial expressions and light English. I met their families and asked to take their photos. It’s not posed. Their lifestyle allows for genuine photographs. They don’t have the media giving them an aesthetic–they give 100 percent of themselves,” says Pavlatos.
“I took a series of abstract photos, about 20 of just color and shapes of objects,” says Fine Arts major Pamela Stoicev. “I’m interested in the things people overlook. In my painting class we’re doing a culture painting, referencing lore and culture. So it worked out perfectly. I’m very happy that the two classes merged,” she says.
Some mischievous monkeys captured the attention of Karina Demirciyan, a Communications Design major. “We went to a yoga studio and these monkeys were jumping up and down going from the roof to the ground and then to the next group of buildings,” she said.
“It was like Wak-a-mole. I stayed there with my camera and took the shot. It was perfect timing. Then there was a tarp they were poking in and out of,” hence another capture.
Ziara Rosario, a Fashion Business Merchandising major was struck by shapes and passageways. “I focused on architecture because architecture carries the same weight as other forms of expression of the culture,” she said.
“I had a lot of fun looking at the in-between-stuff as you walk. This was leaving the Taj Mahal. There are alleyways, but you might not think to catch these places.”
The lions, wolves, lemurs, monkeys and birds from the “Upper Worlds” installation are gone now. For six months they beckoned passersby from the Fifth Avenue display window of the Mid Manhattan Library. Their purpose was a different one from the famed lions, Patience and Fortitude, seated diagonally across the street at the entrance way of the 42nd Street NYPL. They are an expression of reverence for Earth’s creatures on the brink of extinction. The creator of the Upper Worlds, artist and sculptress Professor Sue Willis, talks here with Fine Arts Chair Joel Werring about the installation:
“One of the most exciting things about the creative process is to find out where you’re going and what you end up with. You’re not always led where you think you’re going to be led. It’s the magical feeling of discovering something you weren’t expecting to happen.” – Sue Willis
“For me, Sue’s installation at the NY public library was a heartfelt and compassionate statement on the vulnerability and diversity of life on this marvelous planet and that we as humans so often take for granted,” says Prof. Werring.
What happens when you expect scenes of joy, and fate provides pathos instead?
“I thought I would be photographing a celebration,” says Alex Golshani (photography ’16), about the evening of the presidential election. “I expected to be making images of mothers and daughters witnessing an historic event and tearfully jubilant voters relieved after a close call with a nightmare scenario.”
Here are several of Golshani’s photos and comments about election night and the protests that followed. The photos are part of his “11/9” series that was recently published as a book.
“I was in the crowd outside of Javits Center and as the votes were being reported. This woman (above) was the first person I saw tearing up. I took it as a sign of what was coming,” says Golshani.
“His portraits illustrate the face of the country at this moment of time,” says Professor Curtis Willocks of his former student. “Alex is a thinker. He’s cerebral. He’s always looking. He’s always thinking. He is so observant of people and light. His work has always stood out.”
Outside the Javits Center, Khizr Kahn (above) and other prominent Clinton supporters gave speeches. “Mr. Kahn was of particular interest to me because of his role in the campaign and his bold opposition to discrimination and bullying,” says Golshani.
“Alex Golshani’s stark and moving black and white images of election night and the protests that followed poignantly and sensitively capture the mood of despair, disbelief and brewing anger of the moment.
When the crowd cleared, Golshani walked to Times Square where he found a mix of supporters from each side. “People were arguing and yelling. That man (above) in the suit just looked stunned, like he couldn’t believe what was happening,” says Golshani.
“His portraits illustrate the face of the country at this moment of time…Alex is a thinker. He’s cerebral…His work has always stood out.”
– Prof. Curtis Willocks
“I was feeling distressed and wanting to call it quits and go home, but I didn’t. This was history happening all around me and it didn’t matter if I was scared I had to document it,” he says.
We stand at a crossroads and never in my lifetime have I felt the critical need of the media and visual storytellers to portray our nation with calm, dignity and truthfulness. Alex’s work represents an approach that I hope we see more of.” – Ed Kashi
The following night Golshani went to the protest rally that started in Union Square and marched to Trump Tower.
“There were thousands of people on Fifth Avenue. Many had signs and were chanting. People wanted their opposition to be heard. Many were climbing scaffolding and lamp posts.”
Golshani says that at FIT he explored many “applications” of photography. “My work evolved a lot in four years. I had the benefit of some great professors who informed my many interests.”
“I admired him from Day One,” says Prof. Willocks. “He’d go out and experiment on his own with different cameras, with different film. We’d take the train to 42nd Street. Even on that short trip he’d be photographing. When I think of Alex Golshani I think of a Leica camera. He always had one around his neck. He knows his stuff.”
Golshani says he has been photographing protests since Occupy Wall Street in 2011. “The protests I have documented have been about issues like the economy, police brutality, women’s rights and even protests for food purity. Making pictures has been my way of contributing,” he says.
“I think this series is a time capsule of how people were feeling about certain issues. Today they mean one thing, in 40 years they may have a different meaning”says Golshani, who plans to do related works on the upcoming inauguration and the Women’s March on Washington.
The associate dean (and for five months our interim dean) of the School of Art and Design has left after 17 years at FIT for a warmer… much warmer…clime, in a city with really tall buildings and great high-fashion shopping malls and 24-hour air conditioning…Dubai.
Goodbye words: “No, I didn’t get fired!”
Days between arrival and work: “I fly on (Jan) the 6th, arrive on (Jan) the 7th and start work on (Jan) the 8th.”
First experience at FIT: “I was brought in to teach American Couture. I used to laugh that they brought in a European for this.”
Favorite memory at FIT: Georgianna Appignani (director of International Programs) sent me to a conference in Rio on textiles. I’d never had any public speaking experience. It was attended by the president or VP of Brazil. It was another experience of leaping and hoping a net would be there. It opened my eyes to the opportunities in education. I’ve written two books since then, lots of papers and taught workshops and spoken all over the world.
Advice to self in re-locating to a new country: “You have to find the things that bring you joy very quickly. It’s a way of establishing your own supports. Whenever you move, especially where you don’t know anyone, you lose all the familiarities that make life comfortable. You’re going to have many lonely and stressful times.”
First one new thing of joy in Dubai: “A Lebanese restaurant I discovered.”
Other things of comfort: “My broom(stick), my crystals, things that I’ve picked up from places I’ve been, chairs from Ivory Coast, ornaments from Brazil.
When Kareen Fagan tells people that she has an AAS in Jewelry Design (2005) and that she runs a body and hair care products business, she imagines them wondering: “How does she go from creating artistic designs to making soaps and scrubs?”
Ms. Fagan, now at work on her BS in Entrepreneurship, tells us how she combines intertwining passions. She also talks about her enduring inspiration, her grandmother Enid, whose name is now synonymous with sweet smelling herbs, scented oils, and healing and beauty lotions.
“While I am an artist, my focus is on making products with nourishing ingredients from the earth to help treat or alleviate conditions such as eczema, sunburn or overly dry or oily skin,” she says.
Ms. Fagan describes herself as “DIY” to the core. “Along with making jewelry, I’ve made hair and body products based on my personal needs since I was a teen,” she says.
Having tried different moisturizers for dry skin, she researched and experimented with plant-based oils in her kitchen. She developed her Shea Body and Hair Butter, which she shared with friends and family who then requested to purchase more.
“I didn’t plan on starting a body and hair care business. My goal since I was a teenager was to have a jewelry company,” she says.
In fact she was selling handmade jewelry when she was only 11 years old. “On weekends I sold my jewelry at craft shows. My parents allowed me to travel from our home in New Jersey to Manhattan to buy my beads and supplies at wholesale suppliers,” she says.
“A couple years ago I became passionate about helping people with my body and hair products. I chose to use chemical- and preservative-free, plant-based oils like raw shea butter, organic olive oil, organic coconut oil and essential oils.”
Ms. Fagan named her company Enid B. in honor of her paternal grandmother. “She first taught me about using medicinal plants to care for our family,” she says.
“The artistry of jewelry making is incorporated in my body and hair care product making in different ways. I consciously choose plants that I infuse into oil in order to get different colors to have as my color palette, much the way I would use colored stones,” she says.
“My Thai Breeze soap is made in two batches and then combined. One batch has no added color, but takes on a cream color from the, which over time fades to a soft brown and then becomes the top layer of the soap.”
For the second batch, the bottom layer is infused with annatto seeds, a natural colorant used in foods like Spanish yellow rice. “It’s inspired by the rich colors of Thailand and the golden architecture that is part of the country’s landscape. Then there’s the blending of essential oils to create imagery I like. I use lemongrass and ginger as the lead scents in my Thai Breeze soap.”
Ms. Fagan began blending oils that she found to have healing properties. “I have taken perfumery courses like Intro to Perfumery.” She takes other courses based on the needs of her business as they arise. For instance, she took Intro to Digital Photography and Still-Life Fundamentals for Fashion Stylists.
“Packaging design has become very important to me. I want the packaging to be an outward extension of the product’s purpose, which the customer will experience upon opening. My products are for the good that they will do, but also they are little luxuries that sit beautifully next to a favorite soap dish in the bathroom, or next to a collection of vintage perfume bottles in the bedroom.”
Ms. Fagan has begun using glass jars for her shea body-hair butters and face-lip scrubs like her Rosemary and Lemon Sugar Scrub.
“There’s a feeling that comes from the coolness as your hand glides over the smooth sides of the jars. There’s also an elegance that plastic cosmetic jars don’t always have,” she says.
With the help of friends and family, Ms. Fagan has honed what she calls her “design eye.” Early on, a roommate she had, pointed out the complimentary designs of materials she had chosen for the apartment. “There was a lace theme in my curtains and a couple of tops and a favorite skirt. The colors in my quilt were the same as my oven mitts,” she says.
Now Ms. Fagan gets feedback from her husband and friends. “They get to be my product test subjects, which they absolutely don’t mind!”
More information on Kareen Fagan’s skin care line can be found on her Etsy shop: Enid B.
“First off, I am a dog lover,” says Illustration Professor John Nickle, to exactly no one’s surprise. While the award-winning illustrator’s spunky, high-minded animal characters for children’s books are 100% imagination, these hard-living pups serve as the illustrator’s live muses. He knows their stories, predilections, where they hail from, accessories they look best in and the ones they chew through. Prof. Nickle tells of his experience with each of them here:
I was given a blurry, one-inch square Xerox copy of Dave’s ASPCA mugshot, attached to his rescue paperwork. Apparently the guys who found him, stuck a hat on him for the photo. I re-shot the photo reference for detail and lighting, and added a different hat but kept Dave’s stunned expression.
My inspiration comes from the 18th century English painter George Stubbs, known for his animal paintings. I recently saw several of Stubbs’ horse paintings at the Met and was struck by how subtly weird they were.
Rundown is a big, solid Hamptons dog by way of Baltimore. Felix is my dog, a crazy Italian Greyhound. They see each other a couple of times a year when we visit our friend Stacey in Sag Harbor. When they play it’s like watching a weight lifter and a sprinter dance and trash talk.
My challenge is to push the paintings beyond straightforward animal portraiture and find a little twist to make them interesting.
Felix and I know Iggy and his owner Dani from Prospect Park. Dani says that Iggy’s face reminded her of a pansy. I had a hard time composing this with just one pansy, so a halo seemed to be a good and appropriate solution. Prospect Park is the background.
The series dovetails nicely with my illustration and painting classes at FIT. They are collaborative, like illustration assignments, and I use a classical approach to the making of the paintings.
Elsa is an Icelandic Sheepdog. Her “mom,” Annika and the family are avid skiers and split their time between Vermont and Brooklyn. Elsa is a fiery, focused, and vocal little dog, aka the “Bjork of Prospect Park.” I wanted to juxtapose her intense presence with the serenity of a snowy landscape.
I encourage each client to tell me their dog’s story and encourage feedback during the photography and sketch phase. I take a lot of photos for reference and usually use about four final choices for the main reference. One photo for expression, one for angle, one for color and one for lighting.
The final paintings are all acrylic on wood. I start with a monotone underpainting and then apply a combination of washes, opaque paint, and glazes.
Buster and Ginger are roommates in New Jersey. Rendering fur was the big challenge here, of Ginger’s flowing locks and Buster’s crazy patchwork. These are part of a three-part commission that includes the client’s son.
For each of the paintings, I made the background a bold, solid primary-ish color so that they could be hung close together as a triptych, spaced and hung as either a horizontal or a vertical set.
Samantha Mayo became interested in interior design in her junior year at Sayville High School on Long Island. “I grew up going to antique shops in Pennsylvania and throughout New England. I had an interest and feel for furniture and accessories from different time periods,” says Mayo, now a first-semester Interior Design student.
“I used to wonder how the furnishings and pieces affected their previous owners’ lives. I thought about how to recreate the same feeling or perhaps a completely different one for another person’s life,” says Mayo.
“Now I think about the environment that furnishings belong in — how the colors will affect the perception and mood of the space,” she says about what she’s learned in Interior Design Studio I class with Prof. Phyllis Harbinger.
Her second project for this class was to explore moods and setting. “We were each assigned a different hue; mine was orange. I created a triadic color scheme for a therapy center. This is a hue that exudes a hopeful, happy and relaxing environment,” says Mayo.
“What students learn,” says Prof. Harbinger “is not only the principals and theory of color harmony, but the practical application of appropriate materials. It’s not just about the right hue or color, but making sure your texture and patterns are all aligning with the overall scheme and provide function for that particular space.”
The commercial board (above) is a triadic color harmony. That means three colors equidistant on the color wheel. The hues in an orange triadic scheme include purple and green. “We went to the Decoration and Design Building, which has interior design showrooms, to find samples of materials that would be in our respective spaces. It was fun but challenging to find the right ones for a commercial space,” says Mayo.
The project’s second board is of a residential space. “This is a master bedroom. I created a client profile of a young woman in Arizona who longed for cooler weather. Her bedroom retreat included the elements of her surroundings–the warm tones of orange, but also the cool tones of blue. Think cool ocean breezes!” says Mayo.
“Her boards were very professionally executed,” says Prof. Harbinger. “She’s coming away from this project with a better understanding of how an interior designer would work through the process of creating a color harmony.”
There’s more to come. “The interior design curriculum will help Samantha build a skill set that will enable her to understand, evaluate how to incorporate elements from various historical periods into a design that will fit the way we live today,” says Prof. Harbinger.
Mayo agrees. “Learning about color harmony and schemes will help me incorporate elements of different time periods into spaces that I’ll be designing.”
“We got the design direction for the front of the card fairly quickly,” said Prof. Yeh. “But I got stuck working on the design for the back. The theme was typography in the digital age,” And then…
“Prof. Shin started breaking the expected grid and used a diagonal layout to bring more energy to the design.
“I watched her move things around quickly on and off the art board. I said to myself ‘Oh, the movement reminds me of a printing press.’ It actually looks like a misprint when it is left partially outside of the art board.
“Misprint became our core concept. We were excited by this direction. The idea of a misprint exposes the technology behind the making of the invitation card. The textual content was rotated and purposely aligned on an angle to give a sense of movement, and the position was carefully calculated so the viewer has to complete some of the information by moving the eyes from one side to the other.”